Monthly Archives: February 2012

Recipe: Provençal Vegetable Soup with Pistou

This recipe is adapted very slightly from a recipe in The Mediterranean Vegan Kitchen, a book that I highly recommend if you want to cook authentic mediterranean dishes that just happen to be vegan.  Most of these dishes come into one of two categories: recipes from regions with very few resources and very little food and recipes intended for Lent.  This one certainly fits into my Lenten plans, but feels rather luxurious for a fasting season.  The vegetables taste very fresh and very much of themselves, and the pistou sets them off beautifully.  Be warned, though – there is a fair bit of preparation involved in making this.  I think it’s worth it, and if you have a food processor to do your chopping, it probably goes very fast, but I go by hand and chopping all those vegetables took ages…

I eat this soup with bread.  It doesn’t really need anything else.  It serves around 5-6 people, depending how hungry they are.

Your Shopping List

olive oil
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped, plus 2 for the Pistou
2 onions
3 carrots
2 smallish zucchini (no marrows, but no midgets either)
250g green beans (or purple, or yellow, but you want the nice long ones, not the roundish ones)
1 celery stick
500 g roma tomatoes
6 cups + 4 tablespoons vegetable stock
salt, pepper, herbs of your choice, but don’t go overboard.  I used some mediterranean herbed salt.
1 big bunch basil
1 slice of real bread – pasta dura or wholegrain, but not cotton wool
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 tsp salt
500 g potatoes
2 tins cannelini beans, drained

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Recipe: Crêpes for pancake day

This blog is getting a bit Lent-themed at present, but what do you expect from someone who is involved in three separate church choirs?  Anyway, Pancake Day (also known as Shrove Tuesday) could stand to be celebrated a bit more in Australia, because it’s fun.  It’s the day for using up all the eggs and dairy products you aren’t going to eat during Lent (because if you are in pre-industrial Europe, your hens have pretty much stopped laying by this time of year, and your cows probably aren’t producing much milk, either), and a day to party on the last of the good produce you’ve got as you head into the lean season of early spring, when there just isn’t much available in the way of vegetables, either.  Certainly, Lent is a religious observance, but it fits in so well with the season I can’t help suspecting this was a deliberate choice on the part of the early Church.

None of this really applies in post-industrial Australia, where it never really gets cold enough for the hens to stop laying (though they can die of the heat in this sort of weather), and anyway, we’re in a season of abundance and heading into Autumn anyway. 

But  we should still get to have pancakes. 

My mother wasn’t that into Pancake Day when we were growing up – I know she did it some years, but I’m not sure she did it every year.  But when we did have pancakes, it was always crêpes, not those funny puffy things you call pancakes in the USA.  And we had them with lemon and sugar, or sometimes with plum or apricot jam, warmed in the oven.

In my undergraduate days, when I moved out of home into share accommodtion, crêpes therefore became the special breakfast thing I did when people were staying.  Not my mother’s crêpes, these, but a recipe I got from an encyclopaedic Family Circle Cookbook given to me by my aunt when I turned 17.  The recipe contained 1 tablespoon of brandy, which quickly evolved into 2 tablespoons and thence into a quarter of a cup, and so forth, until my breakfast brandy pancakes were  rather infamous for their alcoholic nature.  There was also at least one episode which involved setting my hair on fire, but I honestly can’t remember how I did that.  I blame the brandy.

These crêpes are not the brandy pancakes of my insufficiently-mis-spent youth, but they do have rather more brandy than Family Circle would recommend.  I maintain that this is absolutely appropriate to the spirit of indulgence encouraged by Shrove Tuesday. Also, my recollection is that this recipe makes a *lot* of pancakes.  You have been warned.

Your shopping list

1 1/4 cups plain flour
a pinch of salt
3 eggs, beaten
1 1/2 cups milk
3 tablespoons brandy (or more.  I won’t tell.)
2 teaspoons melted butter

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Recipe: Mayonnaise with Roasted Garlic, Tarragon, and Hubris

Hello!  It’s been a while, hasn’t it?  Unfortunately, I forgot, when I started this blog in the slow season at work, that there would come a time of year when I would be drowning in a seemingly endless sea of grant applications.  The nice thing about this time of year is that I get to feel useful – I’m really good at organising grants, and I actually quite like talking new postdocs through the application process.  Another nice thing is that I work up so much time in lieu that I get to have a little holiday at the end of this period.  But the flip-side is that I am working long hours, in addition to all my usual sidelines, and this leaves little time for cooking, let alone blogging.

And then we get days like last Thursday, when I had a totally brilliant idea for dinner while I was still at work, and sent Andrew out to buy the ingredients while I was at choir.  I was going to make my amazing pan-roasted fillet steak salad with home-made mayonnaise, and in my head, I had already started drafting my cheerful, friendly, reassuring post about how, despite what you may have heard, mayonnaise is actually really *easy*!  I’ve made it five times, and it has worked without a fuss every time!  And here are my secrets!  I even had a delightful little side comment about saving the egg-whites for meringues or, if one was feeling ambitious (as indeed I was), for macarons!

Ha, I say, and Ha again.  I got home on Thursday night and found that my lovely husband had indeed bought the ingredients I didn’t have, and had roasted the garlic, just like I had asked him to.  So I settled down to make mayonnaise.  I even took photos! And it didn’t work.  Not even a little bit.  And I have absolutely no idea why.  So I threw out the first batch and tried again.  This time, I know exactly why it didn’t work.  Apparently, adding way too much vinegar very early in the piece ruins everything.  Since I no longer had any roast garlic left, I grimly added another egg yolk, and decided that it was time to get out the beaters, rather than using the fork method.  And finally, finally, it came together.  I was so relieved that I promptly flicked a large dollop of the mayonnaise into the egg-whites which I was so frugally reserving for future meringue needs (and this is why you should cover things you leave on the benchtops, even if it’s only going to be for a few minutes)…

So yes.  Do try making mayonnaise.  It’s delicious when you make it at home, and so exciting when it comes together.  But if it’s late at night after a long day of work and choir, I strongly recommend having some of the good quality bought stuff to hand.  It will save you a great deal of frustration…

Oh, and one final confession.  After all that, I no longer had the faintest idea what quantities of olive oil I had used in the mayonnaise!  So I have come up with my quantities by looking online and through my cookbooks until I saw something that looked about right.  And on my merry way, I ran across this website which talks a lot more about how egg yolks emulsify things, and it’s all very fascinating, so I think you should have a look at it – though I don’t recommend using 100 cups of oil for each egg yolk…

Your shopping list

1 bulb of garlic
olive oil for roasting garlic
1 egg yolk (make sure it’s fresh, and please get free-range if you possibly can)
1/2 tsp sea salt
1/4 cup grapeseed oil
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1/4 cup olive oil (you may need a little more to get the consistency you like)
1 tsp white wine vinegar
black pepper and dried tarragon, to taste
 

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Market Day – High Summer Masquerading as Autumn

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Well, that’s Melbourne for you.  Actually, I much prefer summer when it’s masquerading as autumn, so this title should not be taken as an aspersion on my lovely city’s lovely weather. This post is a bit late, and will probably … Continue reading

Preparation time…

For the past few years, it has been my personal tradition to go vegetarian for Lent.  This is a slightly odd thing to do, because I am not, in fact, all that sure what I believe, religion-wise.  Continue reading

Recipe: Drained Yoghurt (Labneh)

I’m not sure you can call something with exactly one ingredient a recipe, per se, but this is a really useful thing to know about, very easy, and a basis for all sorts of yummy things.  This is basically a yoghurt cheese, which you can make as firm as you have the patience (or planning) for.  It’s somewhat similar in personality to cream cheese, but has the advantage that you can choose what ever variety of dairy product you like to start with – low-fat or full-fat, cow, goat or sheep’s milk, according to taste or lactose tolerance.  Rumour has it you can even make this using soy yoghurt, but given the difficulty of finding a plain soy yoghurt in Australia, this is probably not going to be practical for my local vegan friends.

The only trick to this recipe is that you do need to start it at least 6 hours ahead of time (though I understand that soy labneh takes less time).  But since you don’t actually have to do anything with it during this time, we’re really talking a matter of planning rather than work.

The fun part, of course, is all the stuff you can do with it when it’s done… see below for many, many ideas.

Your shopping list

2 kg yoghurt of your choice, but bear in mind that you do want a reasonably well-flavoured yoghurt, and thicker, Greek-style yoghurts are easier to work with.  And yes, I know this is a lot of yoghurt but you will be losing a lot of the bulk as the liquid drains out, especially if you are using a fairly thin yoghurt or draining it for a longer time.  There’s really not much point in starting with less than 1 kg if you want a usable amount at the end.
 
You will also need cheesecloth (ha, like I can ever find that), clean chux wipes (the option preferred by my cheesemaking teacher), or a sacrificial tea towel (which you will really want to rinse out immediately after use, or horrible things will start growing in it very quickly), as well as a seive or colander and a bowl to sit it on.

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Shakespeare Post: Coriolanus!

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Well.  That was fun.  I’ve heard Coriolanus described as ‘relentlessly political’, and it was certainly that.  It does remind me a bit of Julius Caesar, with the easily-manipulated and vocal citizenry and the two conspiring tribunes muttering to each other … Continue reading

Recipe: Decidedly Un-Roman Cherry, Date and Cacao Balls

Ugly, certainly, but that just means you won’t have to share…

I have a friend who is allergic to quite a few things, with nuts and eggs being at the top of the list.  She’s always terribly apologetic about this and tells me not to cook for her (fat chance), which drives me nuts (tee hee!), because she’s also extremely awesome – intelligent, creative and kind, and clearly deserving of delicious food.  And, actually, I don’t find nuts and eggs  all that difficult to work around most of the time

Of course, it does become a trifle more challenging when I’m experimenting with raw foods, because raw food recipes have nuts in everything, replacing flour, biscuits, and even dairy.  Which, actually, is fascinating, and it’s entirely possible that I just accidentally went online and ordered a whole book of raw food desserts, but that’s beside the point.  Anyway, I’m not the world’s greatest nut fan (though there are those who would say I am more than a little bit nutty), but I am most definitely fond of things chocolatey, which brings me to a favourite new discovery of mine: cacao beans!

Cacao beans are basically proto-chocolate. They are the primeval fluid from which chocolate, bubbling, evolves.  OK, this may not be entirely true.  I’ve been cooking non-stop for the last 8 hours, and am possibly a little silly.  But they certainly are the things which, after a certain amount of processing which I knew once but have temporarily forgotten, get turned into things like cocoa butter, cocoa powder, and of course CHOCOLATE. 

Cacao beans also behave pretty much exactly like nuts for culinary purposes, with the useful exception being that they don’t give people like my friend anaphylaxis (which was never my favourite nutty property anyway). 

You do see where I’m going with this, don’t you?  The lovely Hannah over at Wayfaring Chocolate keeps creating all these lovely raw truffle / cookie recipes which are really irresistible in this weather.  I looked at the ones made of dates and dried cherries and cashews and thought, I wonder what would happen if I used cacao beans instead of the cashews?

It turns out that what happens is I get very, very tired of shelling cacao beans, and then wish I’d shelled a lot more, because these little sweetmeats are amazing – dark and chocolatey and neither too sweet nor too bitter, with a definite cherry kick to them.  You can’t taste the dates – they are basically acting as sweetener and glue – and you don’t really taste the Stealth Oats, hanging out in there, making you healthy when you aren’t looking.  I can’t express how delicious these are, and I’d never had known this if my friend wasn’t allergic to nuts...

(And before I get on to the recipe, I feel I should reiterate that this really is Hannah’s recipe – I changed one ingredient, and increased the quantities slightly, but that really was all I did.)

Your Shopping List

75 g cacao beans, or 70g cacao nibs if you don’t want to spend fifteen minutes shelling beans
50 g rolled oats
100 g mejdool dates
100 g dried sour cherries

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Coriolanus Cookery – thinking out loud

I’m trying to figure out my menu for Sunday’s Shakespeare, and finding it unusually difficult (it doesn’t help that I’m a bit under the weather this week.  I actually have a really impressively revolting Shakespearean euphemism for my current condition, but I’m going to spare those of you who don’t already know it.  Believe me, you’d rather not know.).   Coriolanus is a Roman play, which gives me a nice, clear Roman theme, and I do have some excellent recipes along these lines… until you consider the fact that it’s going to be 31°C tomorrow and 33°C on Sunday, and if I do any baking at all, the house will be unbearable once we get 12 people around the table.

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Cooking for People Who Don’t Cook – a festival of links and recipes

My friend Commodorified over at Dreamwidth is holding a ‘Cooking for People Who Don’t’ Carnival, with the theme being Food Security.  There’s some really amazing stuff there, and I suggest giving it a good look.  Since the whole question of What If There Isn’t Enough Food is one which is dear to my heart, you’d think I’d have something useful to contribute, but the truth is that my most poverty-stricken years were also years in which I was still learning to cook,  was decidedly unadventurous, and generally not a good example to anyone.  My most useful piece of advice for the culinary unaware from those years is: don’t forget to prick holes in your potato before you bake it.  Especially if the oven you are using does not belong to you.  Believe me, it’s very, very embarrassing when they explode, and potato innards are not the easiest thing to clean out of an oven…

And speaking of things which explode, if for some reason you decide to boil an egg in the microwave and you’d rather not have it explode, make sure you prick a hole in the shell first.  This one isn’t from my own experience – the mother of one of my friends decided, in a spirit of scientific enquiry, to find out what happened if she didn’t follow the instructions in her microwave cookbook.

There is, however, more to food security than not exploding things in ovens.

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